Revell 1/180 USS Lionfish - Page 2

TLAM Strike · 12-30-11, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IonicRipper

Yes im definitely gonna do something about the railing... i thought about the sewing thread, that might be an option.

P.S. thank you for the picture, its really helpful

You know about this website right?
http://navsource.org/

All the pics you ever could need for this project.

Sewing thread works good, but I've come to like headphone wire. Just take a pair of Dollar Store head phones and strip the insulation off. They are strong, bendy and don't sag as much as sewing thread.

IonicRipper · 12-30-11, 09:37 PM

I did not know about that website but thank you very much for sending me there

IonicRipper · 12-31-11, 08:18 PM

Not much but heres what i did to the conning tower so far

Chopped the awkward looking top off and opened the fairwater.
I also cut the railing off and im looking into making a better one with some stripped headphone wire.

I think its an improvement over the original in terms of authenticity.

IonicRipper · 01-01-12, 10:37 PM

Syxx_Killer · 01-02-12, 09:30 PM

I'm going to have to keep an eye on this thread. I built this model many years ago as a kid. I still have it, actually, but it doesn't look the best. I always thought it would be good to get another one and do it up right.

Your conning tower is looking pretty good so far. I think it looks better than the standard mold.

IonicRipper · 01-02-12, 11:52 PM

Thank you Syxx, doing the best i can

Railing is halfway done!

Just gotta cut them down to the correct height (with a nail clipper) once the glue is dry.

It didnt turn out exactly like i thought it would... They look thicker then what i planned. But we'll see what it looks like once its painted.

TLAM Strike · 01-03-12, 12:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IonicRipper

It didnt turn out exactly like i thought it would... They look thicker then what i planned. But we'll see what it looks like once its painted.

Are those toothpick tips?

Ripper do you how to melt a sprue?

http://www.modelaces.com/_scale_mode...enna_wires.php

You can make really fine wires and stuff with it, I've used it on my 1/72nd scale Sherman, Panzer III and Wespe for their radios. Just don't make it as thin for railings.

IonicRipper · 01-03-12, 09:33 AM

I thought about it but i didnt think they would be strong enough.

Also since the toothpicks tips were shaped in cones the base made it much MUCH easier to fit then a thin piece of sprue would. I might trim them down later if its possible.

TLAM Strike · 01-03-12, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IonicRipper

I thought about it but i didnt think they would be strong enough.

As long as you don't make them thin like a hair they will be strong. Even if they are hair thin they maintain their shape.

But you might need to paritaly streach it and sand the lumpiness out of a sprue to get ones sufficiently big for railings at that scale.

IonicRipper · 01-03-12, 08:40 PM

Looking good so far

IonicRipper · 01-04-12, 12:22 PM

Another question arises: What color should i paint the hull...

Should i paint it red and grey like this:

(like the box says)

Or black and grey like this:

(like i originally planned)

Which is more accurate for the WWII era?

Sailor Steve · 01-04-12, 01:06 PM

From the sheeting in the first picture, I would suspect that they were in the process of painting her when it was taken, and what we're seeing might be the primer coat. Even if the hull were red it would only be so below the waterline, sometimes with a black stripe at the waterline itself.

Here is a very old Subsim discussion of this very topic.
http://www.subsim.com/radioroom//arc.../t-116853.html

A discussion from a submarine modelling forum indicates that they could be red or black, but again it would only start at the waterline, not the top of the ballast tanks. There is also the chance that in your second picture the waterline area is black and the hull below that is red.
http://s181686668.onlinehome.us/phpB...php?f=6&t=1863

If you want to build more models in the future this book might come in handy.
http://www.submarinebooks.com/USsubmarines.htm

And here is a very nice collection of photos by other modelbuilders. I'm sure they all did their research properly, so you can probably trust their color schemes.
http://steelnavy.com/gallery_submarines.htm

IonicRipper · 01-04-12, 01:28 PM

Thank you very much Steve, very informative reply

I'll be painting it just like i planned (2nd picture)

IonicRipper · 01-04-12, 06:47 PM

Conning tower railing is done!

By no means is it perfect, but its much better then originally, isnt it?

Schöneboom · 01-05-12, 08:44 PM

Indeed, good job! I don't know how much you want to invest in aftermarket goodies, but most likely some etched brass or resin parts are available from model companies, for ex.,

http://nautilusmodels.com/

Carry on sailor!

12-30-11, 09:37 PM	#17
IonicRipper Engineer Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 206 Downloads: 103 Uploads: 0	I did not know about that website but thank you very much for sending me there __________________

12-31-11, 08:18 PM	#18
IonicRipper Engineer Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 206 Downloads: 103 Uploads: 0	So far... Not much but heres what i did to the conning tower so far Chopped the awkward looking top off and opened the fairwater. I also cut the railing off and im looking into making a better one with some stripped headphone wire. I think its an improvement over the original in terms of authenticity. __________________

01-01-12, 10:37 PM	#19
IonicRipper Engineer Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 206 Downloads: 103 Uploads: 0	Little preview __________________

01-02-12, 11:52 PM	#21
IonicRipper Engineer Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 206 Downloads: 103 Uploads: 0	Thank you Syxx, doing the best i can Railing is halfway done! Just gotta cut them down to the correct height (with a nail clipper) once the glue is dry. It didnt turn out exactly like i thought it would... They look thicker then what i planned. But we'll see what it looks like once its painted. __________________

01-03-12, 09:33 AM	#23
IonicRipper Engineer Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 206 Downloads: 103 Uploads: 0	I thought about it but i didnt think they would be strong enough. Also since the toothpicks tips were shaped in cones the base made it much MUCH easier to fit then a thin piece of sprue would. I might trim them down later if its possible. __________________ Last edited by IonicRipper; 01-03-12 at 09:51 AM.

01-02-12, 09:30 PM	#20
Syxx_Killer Admiral Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Michigan, USA Posts: 2,387 Downloads: 21 Uploads: 0	I'm going to have to keep an eye on this thread. I built this model many years ago as a kid. I still have it, actually, but it doesn't look the best. I always thought it would be good to get another one and do it up right. Your conning tower is looking pretty good so far. I think it looks better than the standard mold.

01-03-12, 08:40 PM	#25
IonicRipper Engineer Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 206 Downloads: 103 Uploads: 0	Looking good so far __________________

01-04-12, 12:22 PM	#26
IonicRipper Engineer Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 206 Downloads: 103 Uploads: 0	Another question arises: What color should i paint the hull... Should i paint it red and grey like this: (like the box says) Or black and grey like this: (like i originally planned) Which is more accurate for the WWII era? __________________ Last edited by IonicRipper; 01-04-12 at 12:55 PM.

01-04-12, 01:06 PM	#27
Sailor Steve Eternal Patrol Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: High in the mountains of Utah Posts: 50,369 Downloads: 745 Uploads: 249	From the sheeting in the first picture, I would suspect that they were in the process of painting her when it was taken, and what we're seeing might be the primer coat. Even if the hull were red it would only be so below the waterline, sometimes with a black stripe at the waterline itself. Here is a very old Subsim discussion of this very topic. http://www.subsim.com/radioroom//arc.../t-116853.html A discussion from a submarine modelling forum indicates that they could be red or black, but again it would only start at the waterline, not the top of the ballast tanks. There is also the chance that in your second picture the waterline area is black and the hull below that is red. http://s181686668.onlinehome.us/phpB...php?f=6&t=1863 If you want to build more models in the future this book might come in handy. http://www.submarinebooks.com/USsubmarines.htm And here is a very nice collection of photos by other modelbuilders. I'm sure they all did their research properly, so you can probably trust their color schemes. http://steelnavy.com/gallery_submarines.htm __________________ “Never do anything you can't take back.” —Rocky Russo

01-04-12, 01:28 PM	#28
IonicRipper Engineer Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 206 Downloads: 103 Uploads: 0	Thank you very much Steve, very informative reply I'll be painting it just like i planned (2nd picture) __________________

01-04-12, 06:47 PM	#29
IonicRipper Engineer Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 206 Downloads: 103 Uploads: 0	Conning tower railing is done! By no means is it perfect, but its much better then originally, isnt it? __________________

01-05-12, 08:44 PM	#30
Schöneboom Seasoned Skipper Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 651 Downloads: 36 Uploads: 0	Indeed, good job! I don't know how much you want to invest in aftermarket goodies, but most likely some etched brass or resin parts are available from model companies, for ex., http://nautilusmodels.com/ Carry on sailor! __________________ Dietrich Schöneboom, U-431 "Es wird klappen, Herr Kaleun. Ganz sicher."