Modeling Tips and Hints

[mapuc]

I thought we also need a thread where we can ask technical question about modelling or give tips and hints on building a model so it looks like a pro have done it.
My first well it's more a question about PE and glue..Like Neal I also wanted to know which glue is best and who doesn't leave trace when dry
So I found this blog:

https://daviddoylebooks.com/blog/201...-parts-by-jeff

Edit
It sounds wrong when I read the headlines Tricks and hints-They are both the same word-So it should have been tips and hints
End edit

Markus

[mapuc]

Weathering a method to give your model an authentic look

There’s nothing quite like a shiny, newly-completed scale model. From racing cars and motorbikes, to trains, planes, and cinema icons, there’s a real sense of achievement when it’s all put together. But while some models look amazing with a clean coat of paint, others benefit greatly from a more aged, authentic look. This is where weathering comes in, and with a few choice techniques you can transform your finished scale model into a realistic replica of the real thing. Are you ready to take your latest model to the next level? Follow our handy weathering tips below!

https://blog.deagostini.com/2018/07/...r-scale-model/

Then it's also this help page

https://finescale.com/how-to/online-...ing-techniques

Markus

[ET2SN]

You could start here:

https://bsi-inc.com/

I'm not a big fan of CA/superglue. Too tricky to apply in tight quarters, you always have to guess how long its going to take for the glue to "flash" and harden, not such a good track record over time (the glue joint tends to get weaker), fogs clear plastic like you wouldn't believe.

CA glue works by forming crystals as it cures. At a microscopic level, the liquid glue sinks into cracks and pits in the surfaces you are trying to bond. CA also reacts to air, where part of the liquid evaporates leaving the crystals behind. The crystals tend to "lock" themselves into deformations on the two surfaces while also locking into the other crystals that are produced.

The problem is that CA never really stops curing until those crystals turn into a powder. It might take a couple of years, but eventually the glue joint is going to fail.

On the other hand, there is Plastic Cement (not the same as plastic glue). Cement is always some form of liquid, from a slimy gel to a liquid thinner than water. Cement works by chemically dissolving a thin layer of the surfaces that are to be joined together. This "mush" of plastic and cement then dries and cures to produce the joint. The perfect form of cement for styrene plastic (the stuff we work with) would be pure Acetone. The problem is that Acetone doesn't stop dissolving plastic until it fully evaporates, so you would wind up with an entire model made out of mush. Old school model glue is basically a gel form of Toluene, it has the same characteristics of Acetone but in a more buffered form. The one big hassle with styrene cements is that they will only bond styrene. Try using them on some other type of plastic (ie, ABS) and all you will get is a mess.

Meanwhile, anyone who has ever used Tamiya Acrylic paint (or any of the Japanese acrylics) knows why you have to have that plastic wrench and rubber cup. Acrylics dry a LOT like glue. Maybe not as strong, but close enough when you're trying to get that cap off.
I noticed that the Tamiya clear colors were harder to open than the regular pigment acrylic paints.. And, we're talking about a joint between plastic and glass.

What I did was buy another pot/jar of Tamiya clear but I didn't dilute it with Tamiya thinner (the big secret to working with Tamiya acrylics is that you're supposed to fill a new jar up to the bend in the glass with thinner, this makes the paint ready for brush painting, they just never told us). It..works.
Again, not as strong as CA but much easier to apply. Once the acrylic cures, it stays cured for the long haul. One other benefit to acrylic is that it shrinks quite a bit as it dries and cures, leaving a minimal spot as a glue joint. Since its undiluted paint, it takes longer to dry.


Another option might be "clear parts glue". This stuff is somewhere in between regular white glue and acrylic paint. I had to try this out once on a nice die-cast Mercedes CL600 that used photo etched CL600 letters on the trunk. While doing a cleaning and a quick spray of high gloss detailing auto wax* I noticed the L on the trunk fell off. The gods were smiling and I found the tiny L on my work bench (this was back when my eyes were sharper) so it meant that I had to fix it. I carefully glued the L back in place with some clear parts glue and a toothpick then added a clear top coat to all the letters to keep them uniform, then crossed my fingers and let it dry for a couple of days.





*- Not related to this topic but something I will be adding to the Modeling Resources thread is High Gloss (detailing) Car Wax. It goes by many names, but its the fast liquid clean and shine spray stuff you can find in most stores.

It does a terrific job on die cast models, but also works well as a cleaner and protectant layer on clear plastic parts.

[mapuc]

Thank you for your advise and your last comment do fit here in this thread.

If you have other tips or hints then post them here in this thread.

Markus

[ET2SN]

No problem.
This is basically what I was talking about:



You can find this stuff for sale everywhere. Auto parts stores, big box (WalMart and Target) stores, discount stores, even grocery stores in the soap and cleaners isle. The brand really isn't important.

Buy a bottle for only models and it will last you long enough to will half of it to your grandchildren.

For die cast model cars- Very handy because it is a weak form of silicon wax. Instead of spraying it on and letting it dry, wipe off and buff immediately after you apply it. I use a Q Tip (cotton bud) to apply it and wipe/buff it with either some old cotton from a tee shirt or a paper tissue (kleenex). Same process for clear plastic, just test first on a part you won't notice if you're also dealing with paint or decals. SHOULD NOT BE USED ON MATTE OR FLAT PAINTS, you'll never get the shine off of those parts. The wax should hold up for several years, as long as you don't display your die casts outdoors.

For clear parts in general- Should only be applied after the part is painted and glued in place. Provides a very shiny finish and also a minimal "hard shell" layer to protect the plastic from stuff like finger prints and dust. On small parts, use the cotton bud/Q Tip to apply and also to wipe off and buff. DO NOT use if you "dip" your clear parts in floor wax.

For plastic model cars- MAKE SURE the paint is fully cured and polished prior to use. Multi level paint work can take time to fully cure. Always test on a hidden part of the paint prior to use. Very handy if you're getting kits ready for a show/exhibition. Gives gloss paints a "showroom shine" so probably not a good idea for most dioramas or Rat Rods.

[mapuc]

Glue or cement one of the most important thing in modelbuilding.

Glue or cement is a personally thing. Two model builder may use different type of glue or cement.

I have four type of glue.

1. Ordinary glue
2. Cement (In a bottle with a pensel)
3. Glue for clear parts
4. Glue for chrome parts

I have to add that Glue for clear parts goes very well to Chrome parts so I didn't need the glue for chrome parts at all.

My first model a WWII fighter plane scale 1:72 was when finished...one big chunk glue...As my uncle said (from memory) Congrats you have build a glue plane with plastic parts.

What's also is important when it comes to glue/cement to parts together is that these parts is clean-Wash the parts and let them dry before connecting them with glue and/or cement.

Cement which is thin is good to create the capillaries effect.

I know that some of my friends here may have more to add or correct me when it comes to glue and cement.

Markus

[mapuc]

I have tried several times to get it down in writing tips and hints about brushes

So I made a search and found this informative information about brushes

Paint brushes are made from stiff or soft hairs, which can be either natural hairs or synthetic fibers.
Soft brushes are ideal for thin paint which spreads easily, such as watercolor paint, and for detailed work as they can form a sharp point which allows for precision painting.
Robust, hard brushes are ideal for pushing around thick paint, and for creating brush marks in the paint, such as when painting in oils using the impasto technique.
How you use your brush will, in large part, determine how long it lasts.
You want to use your brush for the purpose it was intended.

Modern synthetic brushes are excellent and have the advantage of being cheaper than natural hair. Purists will tell you that no synthetic fiber can beat a Kolinsky sable, considered the ultimate of soft hairs because of its flexibility and strength, which give an artist great control. If you're at all squeamish about or ideologically opposed to the sources of natural hair, then synthetic brushes are the way to go.

Synthetic brushes, man-made of either nylon or polyester filaments treated in various ways, are particularly good for acrylic paint, which can be hard on and damage natural hair brushes, and for large-scale work. In general, brushes made for acrylics can be used for oils and watercolor, but natural hair brushes made for oil and watercolor should not be used for acrylics (particularly expensive sable brushes) unless you are willing to replace them more often. Since you need to keep your brush immersed in water when painting with acrylics, this, along with the chemicals in the paint, can ruin natural fibers quickly.

Synthetic brushes are made to mimic specific natural hair brushes but do not function quite the same - for example, a synthetic brush won't hold as much water as a sable for watercolor. Some manufacturers mix synthetic with the natural hair to make them function more like the natural hair brush.

In general, good synthetic brushes are rugged, maintain their shape well, and can be easily cleaned.

Remember to keep your brushes for oil and acrylic painting separate, although you may use a brush for oil painting that you have previously used for acrylic painting. Once a brush has been used for oil painting, though, it should not be used for acrylic painting.

What natural hairs are used in paint brushes?

Sable: The ultimate soft brush is made from the hairs on the tail of a sable marten; these taper naturally, so when they're put into a brush they form a point. Sable brushes are expensive, but are renowned for their softness, flexibility, and fine point. Kolinsky sable from Siberia has traditionally been considered the best hair for watercolor brushes. They are good for painting fine details and very thin paint.

Squirrel: Cheaper than sable, squirrel is a soft hair with little spring. Larger squirrel brushes work better than smaller ones because the mass of hairs together gives them support.

Hog/bristle: These brushes are the workhorse of the oil painter. The ultimate hard brush is made from the hairs on the back of a pig (hog), which are strong yet springy. The bristles have natural split-ends, which increases the amount of paint they hold. They are good for loading with a lot of paint and painting impasto style and are used for both oils and acrylics. They age well, becoming softer and more responsive with use.

Camel: Brushes labeled 'camel' hair are really made from other types of soft hair. Camel hair is unsuitable for brushes because it is too woolly.
Ox: Long, strong and springy hair. It is most often used in flat shaped brushes.

Pony: Coarse hair that doesn't form a good point. Often used in cheaper watercolor brushes

Goat: Lacks spring, but forms a good point. Used in calligraphy and Chinese Brush painting.

How Can You Tell Whether a Brush is Good Quality?
In a store, a brush usually has a protective coating of starch or gum arabic that helps keep its shape when you first buy it. If you can find one without it, or if the store has samples, run the brush over the back of your hand back and forth a few times to test the springiness of the hairs. They should return to their original shape after each stroke. If not, or there are hairs splayed out, you probably do not want to purchase it. It is common courtesy to avoid testing brushes with your fingers and thumbs, as that leaves dirt and oils on the brush from your hands.

The higher priced brushes are generally the higher quality brushes.

Once you get your brush home there are many other things you can do to test the quality of the brush. Read this thorough article on how to test watercolor brushes.

Care for Your Paint Brushes
It is important to care for your brushes properly to avoid ruining the bristles. This means cleaning them well after using them and storing them properly so that the brushes are in good shape to give you the painting effects you want the next time you are ready to use them

https://www.liveabout.com/know-your-...istles-2577905

Markus