SUBSIM Radio Room Forums



SUBSIM: The Web's #1 resource for all submarine & naval simulations since 1997

Go Back   SUBSIM Radio Room Forums > General > Submarine Scale Models: Subs, Naval, Tanks, Planes, Trains, Space & Other
Forget password? Reset here

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-05-07, 11:10 AM   #31
Savvy
Loader
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Somerset, UK
Posts: 89
Downloads: 0
Uploads: 0
Default

I'm hearing ya on the post problem mate. I'm waiting for the wooden deck sections from White Ensign, not thier fault they are coming from the US!

Just ordered CMK's exterior set from Hannants, well worth the money as it put's right Revell's dire attempt at the UZO and attack scope housing, plus you get a pair of turned 'Ally' scopes and a new 88 deck gun! Oh, and four figure's

Sav.
Savvy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-07, 12:16 PM   #32
Siara
Grey Wolf
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Mitcham/London
Posts: 818
Downloads: 0
Uploads: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Savvy
Just ordered CMK's exterior set from Hannants, well worth the money as it put's right Revell's dire attempt at the UZO and attack scope housing, plus you get a pair of turned 'Ally' scopes and a new 88 deck gun! Oh, and four figure's

Sav.
Can you fix me with some link for that particular set please Savvy?

I thought the picture above does not justify the quality of Eduards workmanship i decided to take better pic to show you the amazing detail. For comparison i`ve added the 2 penny coin to the frame:



Watch out the picture is quiet large. You`ve been warned.

*Thanks go to Hannants employee for packing the parts - exceptional protection.



TBC...
__________________


Master Models
Siara is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-07, 01:46 PM   #33
Savvy
Loader
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Somerset, UK
Posts: 89
Downloads: 0
Uploads: 0
Default

No worries mate,

As your familiar with Hannants type in this ref number, CMKN7204. Do this on their search page and it should take you straight to it. Also go here to see some decent pix of what you get for your money http://www.subpirates.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2436

Glen Cauley's web site is very informative also, he's the bloke in the link above, you'll see when ya get there!

Here's a quick rundown of what's going into my build. Eduard etch, Nautilus Bass wood decks, CMK set above and some 'crew' from Hecker and Goros.

Hope this help's

Sav.
Savvy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-07, 03:22 AM   #34
Siara
Grey Wolf
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Mitcham/London
Posts: 818
Downloads: 0
Uploads: 0
Default

Looks a nice combo Savvy.

I just got the total for the remaining parts from MxM which is 90 £.
It includes:
-Yankee Modelworks Pressure Hull
-White Ensign Wooden Deck
-Warriors crew for CT/88mm gun/flak
-Shatton barrels/periscopes/antenna

I know CMK are about to release the pressure hull set of their own , but we have to wait and see what it turn out to bee first. Ill go for tried and tested Yankee Modelworks hull.


The thing thats been on my mind for the while is the weld lines on the boat.
Revell dealt with it by slapping straight lines of plastic on the model , and it does not look right for me.
In order to bring more realistic welds i had to design some sort of tool to change the welds appearance.
I came up with solution - more later.

TBC...
__________________


Master Models
Siara is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-07, 10:31 AM   #35
Siara
Grey Wolf
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Mitcham/London
Posts: 818
Downloads: 0
Uploads: 0
Default

Soldering iron - thats the solution for the weld lines.
Because the temperature that soldering iron reaches was to much for the Revell plastic i came up with simple fix.
Length of copper wire was used , as it conducts the heat well.


I shaped the tip to suit the width of the lines.



You can clearly see the "state" of the welds...


...and after i gave`em the heat treatment...


...and litle bit of sanding.


I think i come out nicely , and with a little bit of more sanding i should get nice subtle welds.


TBC...
__________________


Master Models

Last edited by Siara; 12-02-07 at 08:56 AM.
Siara is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-07, 11:23 AM   #36
Savvy
Loader
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Somerset, UK
Posts: 89
Downloads: 0
Uploads: 0
Default

Got to hand it to ya Siara those welds look pretty bloody good

I have an idea of my own for applying extra weld seams, although i have'nt got around to trying it out yet so don't hold ya breath!!

How are you posting pix in this forum? I think i should start a thread of my own when i get going properly on this build (Thats if the postman ever get's off his fat arse and delivers my stuff) Would make a good comparison thread between two different builders taking on the same kit:hmm:

Keep the pix coming,

Sav.
Savvy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-07, 12:51 PM   #37
Chock
Sea Lord
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Under a thermal layer in chilly Olde England
Posts: 1,842
Downloads: 0
Uploads: 0
Default

Another technique for sorting out weld lines is to paint areas of them with liquid poly, since it works by effectively 'welding' plastic parts together, it attacks the plastic and softens it without the application of heat, takes a bit of experimenting to get the technique, so if you try it, do it on a bit of scrap first, but it works, sort of similar to making filler by dissolving bits of sprue in liquid poly.

Careful you don't go over the top with it though, lumpy welds with pinholes (in real life) would be considered poor, because they would be weak and not fuse to the base metal. The hallmark of good welding is for it to be smooth. Professional welders refer to poor welds as 'pigeon sh*t', because that's what a poor weld line resembles, one good whack with a lump hammer and a weld like that is off and in bits on the floor, I know this because I was taught to weld by a guy that used to do it on rigs at sea incidentally, and he used to take the p*ss out of my first attempts mercilessly! And don't forget, the Germans were way ahead of most nations in welding techniques even in WW1, as evidenced by many of their aircraft using steel rather than wooden sub frames, so their welding was generally very smooth indeed.

That soldered mod looks good by the way.

Chock
__________________
Chock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-07, 01:39 PM   #38
Savvy
Loader
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Somerset, UK
Posts: 89
Downloads: 0
Uploads: 0
Default

Chock, thats exactly what i had in mind for adding weld seams.

The plan is to mask off the new seams with tamiya masking tape then apply the liquid poly.Once softened the plastic can be lightly textured with my special 'add weld seams tool' Ok, an old scalpel blade!

Your right about welders though, the ones at work (Network Rail) are quite particular about thier welds, that's when they are'nt spilling Thermic all over creation!!

Sav.
Savvy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-07, 04:49 PM   #39
Siara
Grey Wolf
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Mitcham/London
Posts: 818
Downloads: 0
Uploads: 0
Default

Thats another way Chock , sounds good. I chose the solder method due to simplicity.

Savvy - im using Image Shack for hosting my pictures , but there are other places where you can host your snaps.
__________________


Master Models
Siara is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-07, 06:20 PM   #40
Sabalo
Mate
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: London
Posts: 58
Downloads: 0
Uploads: 0
Default

Whatever the hell those wires actually do, as long as you put them on your model in the right place, then I guess it will be correct even if we don't know what the hell their purpose is.

Hi guys, I am new in this forum, this U-boat is my favourite. I have checked in "The Type VII U-Boat anatomy of the ship" and the wire description is: Fore hydroplane tensioner. I recommended this book, because all the information and details included, with different versions and all internal and deck arrangements. I have plans to start my model next year.
All the best .
Sabalo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-07, 12:29 AM   #41
Chock
Sea Lord
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Under a thermal layer in chilly Olde England
Posts: 1,842
Downloads: 0
Uploads: 0
Default

Nice one Sabalo. So you were right after all Savvy, they evidently are bracing wires, cheers for the info Sabalo, and welcome to Subsim too.

Chock
__________________
Chock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-07, 02:31 AM   #42
nikimcbee
Fleet Admiral
 
nikimcbee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Patroling the Slot.
Posts: 17,922
Downloads: 90
Uploads: 0


Default

Amazon has this model on sale for around $50 . I'd buy ot, but I don't have any room for it.
__________________
nikimcbee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-07, 03:10 AM   #43
Siara
Grey Wolf
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Mitcham/London
Posts: 818
Downloads: 0
Uploads: 0
Default

Work on surfaces goes on , despite lack of new pictures.
This is the most time consuming part of project , and one im not going to rush. I know the satisfaction when you get everything spot on , and disapointment when you dont.
The welds on one side are done. Next is the other side of the hull , followed by shaping of the tanks to give ripple impression.

I`ll keep you posted.

TBC...

*considering the size of the model i just invested hard earned 100£ in new compressor./happy/
**Savvy -how`s your build?
__________________


Master Models
Siara is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-07, 12:19 PM   #44
Savvy
Loader
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Somerset, UK
Posts: 89
Downloads: 0
Uploads: 0
Default

Siara,

Still scraping away at the hull Port sides nearly finished, starboard side, no where near Still waiting on the POSTMAN to deliver the decks and CMK upgrade.

Good for you on your new compressor, mine has seen better day's but still chug's away when needed. On the subject of Airbrushes 'n' stuff, i'm going to do all my weathering with pastel's and oil's as it worked so well on my Fine Molds Falcon.

Later,

Sav.
Savvy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-07, 12:58 PM   #45
Chock
Sea Lord
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Under a thermal layer in chilly Olde England
Posts: 1,842
Downloads: 0
Uploads: 0
Default

Good tip for weathering: get a set of watercolour pencils (i.e. colouring pencils that are water soluble, find them in artist's material shops)

You can use them in a number of ways; First, you can lightly draw with them on your pristine paint for a rough effect, second you can do the first one and them adjust the effect by using a sable brush dipped in water, third, you can scrape small chips of the coloured pencil onto a saucer with a scalpel and mix it with water to get some watercolour paint, and it is a very flexible way to mix the right colour. The advantage of all this, is that if you don't like what you've done, it will wash off. Fix it by using spray fixer, or if you are cheap, hairspray will work too (use it lightly or you'll get a satin sheen, which you may not want). Try it on something scrap first to check the technique out, but I think you'll like it, much easier than pastels, and easier to correct too.

Chock
__________________
Chock is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
model, scale models

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:53 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright © 1995- 2024 Subsim®
"Subsim" is a registered trademark, all rights reserved.