My BB-62 USS New Jersey 1/350 scale by Tamayia Build-log

[nsomnia]

I loved the battle where the americans got the japanese to cross their T.
Boom baby. I think the vets over emphasize when they say the 16 inchers firing broadsize would rock the ship 3 feet. Maybe not.

Unfortunatly the screws are not scaled properly. I assume because everything below the waterline is top secret. The 1954 missouri doesnt even has screws or a rudder cause the AMERICANS didnt know what she had.

That will be great reference material for when I paint the deck painstakingly with a 3 hair sable brush. I do like making small model modifications to give it the detail "wow factor" but I do like accuracy overall.


I forgot to say on the pic of me holding the inboard prop with the stock styrene shaft glued in... you can see my glue glue setup. A bottle of glue with just the tinyest of tips cut or drilled into it then a 1/32" RC fuel hose for a nozzle.

[Jimbuna]

Great stuff, enjoying this immensely

[Sailor Steve]

Originally Posted by nsomnia

I think the vets over emphasize when they say the 16 inchers firing broadsize would rock the ship 3 feet. Maybe not.

Much debate about that over the years. I can believe that the upperworks rocked/rolled that far laterally, but as for moving through the water? Here's a good study of the physics involved.
http://www.navweaps.com/index_tech/tech-022.htm

[nsomnia]

If you love this you'll love when I get to detailing hand made parts from stock styrene. I cant even take a picture from far enough back for my styrene rack. (I am running low on rods though, thus why I casted the inboard shaft prop holes)

[Aktungbby]

^GOOD STUFF! just read the analysis of the roll from a (15 gun) broadside at zero elevation which in fact uses my photo of the broadside. The straightness of the wake allegedly indicates NO roll or deviation from the broadside

The guns have a recoil slide of up to 48 inches and the shock is distributed evenly through the turret foundation and the hull structure. The mass of a 57,000 ton ship is just too great for the recoil of the guns to move it. Well, theoretically, a fraction of a millimeter.

but no mention is made of the tremendous water 'scallops' from the powder gasses force; I would think that a small tsunami of water recovering to level would cause a roll...after the broadside. (Photo below)USS Missouri doing likewise but the muzzle blast scallop is less defined due to a higher sea wave activity.I actually pored over this last night : indispensable info for a USS New Jersy diehard! http://www.dtic.mil/dtic/tr/fulltext/u2/a215701.pdf enjoy!

[mapuc]

Ok make another try

I find it interesting to see how other are building a model, that I also have built.


Markus

[nsomnia]

Originally Posted by mapuc

Ok make another try

I find it interesting to see how other are building a model, that I also have built.


Markus

Ah now I understand. You find it intersting to see how someone else builds the exact model that you have build before.


I got the plank decks taped off to spray but realized I shouold probly paint them with a brush. Now I dont know if I should brush or spray them.

[Jimbuna]

In the past I always preferred to brush paint decking, not just for the looks but also because I was too lazy to fiddle about with tape.

[nsomnia]

Took me about a half hour the one deck done plus a little on the mid deck, I have autobody experiance so I'm a fast taper but fast != quality. I think im going to brush it with a sable brush. Although a stiffer brush would make for more "roughness" thats why I wanted to airbrush it, easier to make it completely matte.



I'll probably tape around areas I dont want to have to scrape paint off carefully with a razor, instead of taping around all the deck planks.

[mapuc]

Originally Posted by nsomnia

Ah now I understand. You find it intersting to see how someone else builds the exact model that you have build before.


I got the plank decks taped off to spray but realized I shouold probly paint them with a brush. Now I dont know if I should brush or spray them.

Yes.

Regarding the decks I did the same as you, used lots of Tamiya tape(forgot the word) and instead of spraying I toke a plastic cup(those you drink water/coffer a.s.o and then through it away)sprayed into this cup, until I had 2-4 ml then I used two of my brushes(nr 1 and nr 3)

The only place where I used the spray was on the hull and on some of the parts.

The rest I used either Tamiya paint or Humbrol.

Markus

[nsomnia]

Well I love airbrushing so I try to airbrush as much as possible to prevent brush marks but yeah will paint the decks this afternoon.


I've never used tamiya tape I just use 3M brand 1/8 1/4 and 1" painters tape from the hardware store.

[mapuc]

I don't know if they have changed it.

When I bought the model some years ago the first thing I did and always do, see if everything is there.

There I noticed a little mistake.

Instead of USS it was US. BB 62 New Jersey

Have always seen this USS on military ships. There are some ship that doesn't have this USS.

Edit If you wonder what I'm talking about, it's this little display with the ships name on.

Markus

[nsomnia]

Its the 1984 casting but 2013 re-package.

[nsomnia]

I had an idea while I was finish off my game work for the night. They included an extra gun turret I assume they used the same mold for a battleship with 4 turrets or just for spare parts. I dremeled (terribly I might add) all the plastic away I could leaving just a few thou thickness and then added a 3/8" tube with a 1/8" rod inside of it for a rotater and then I welded it to the sides of the turret and then I welded a peice of 1/8" [ channel because it flexes alot lengthwise but not at all sideways and I can toughen it up if I need to by "boxing the frame" in with 0.002 or 0.005 sheet styrene.

Then I dremeled the hole for the 16" gun away leaving lots of room for playing around, hence the putty so I can file it accuratly with a round needle file. then I'll cut a small slot back into the turrent for a 1/32" rod or square or something that will "hold back" the gun basically as a pivot point and the rotater will push the bottom of the gun out thus elevating it, and its a tight fit so the flex in the [ channel willl prevent any breaking and take up slack from innacuracy. I added epoxy putty for extra strength cause the walls were getting real thin and I will reinforce the mounting point back with some tubing or some 0.030 sheet since I had to notch it to allow room for the 3/8" tubing.

If one works I'll iterate it through 1-5 hundred elevations to see if it cracks or breaks or anything and if its fine I'll do the real turrents with my lessons learnt from this spring mechanism idea.

I will probably have to build a little "housing" glued onto the back of the gun that slides in an out so it doesnt just poke out but that will be the easy part and will make it look more boxy and bad ass.

Updates once it dries and I see how well it works.



Edit: Most of the putty will be cut away and replaced with welded stock styrene for strength, but the putty is much easier to get a tight perfect fit to the tubing and [ channel and the sides of the turret. Weird angles and shapes so I'lll file it all flat so I can use square tube, square rod and sheet

[nsomnia]

Well it works... but not the way it should. I should have made the top rotate on a tiny rotater and the bottom a huge slider. Instead of the other way around. This will break over time. I'll do it the right way for other ones. If I can think of a way to fit a rotated in the top. I might have to go buy some more tube and rod, I'm out of all the small size tube.



Took my airbrush with a .05mm nozzle (large general purpose) and 75psi with 9 parts laquer thinner to 1 part mineral spirits and blew all the paint off. Bad idea... too much laquer thinner it melted the plastic a few microns down. It didnt do any noticible damage but if I had touched it it would have got fingerprints and it might be slightly glossier now until I spray it. Going to spray it from a disatnce to try to get that rough look almost like powdercoating. I've never had to simulate deck planking before. I'd be better off buying some of that flat roller painted train decking for building 1800's train platforms.


I could always cut the deck out and replace it with flat stock styrene.