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Old 08-09-19, 08:11 AM   #1
Kptlt. Neuerburg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarracudaUAK View Post
Is the power button bad?
I've had several cases (old and new), where the power button would go bad.
Since they don't need to be held for a long time, I've used a reset button for that.

Barracuda
It's possible that the button is bad or there could be a short somewhere which I think is what's happening. I'm going to be picking up a multimeter today so I'll see what happens. I've often wondered if the manufacturers test their boards at the factory to see if they are working properly before shipping them to the buyer(s)?


Edit: I got the multimeter but I've never done this sort of test before. Could someone give me some pointers as to how I'm supposed to do this?
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Last edited by Kptlt. Neuerburg; 08-09-19 at 10:46 AM.
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Old 08-09-19, 01:43 PM   #2
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So I did some more digging and it turns out that this motherboard doesn't support my current OS which is Win 7 64-bit, but does support Win 10 64-bit. That might have been the real real problem.
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Old 08-09-19, 01:44 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kptlt. Neuerburg View Post
It's possible that the button is bad or there could be a short somewhere which I think is what's happening.
...

I'm sure you have, but did you double check where you plugged in the power button?
I've had a few what were easy to read, but near impossible to actually connect correctly because of the way the pins were arranged.
Might be as simple as that.


It drove me nuts until I figured it out, then it drove me nuts trying to get them on the right pins.





I would do a close visual inspection (magnifying glass might be helpful, or use a high-res setting on your phone camera)...
Looking for anything on the motherboard that could be shorting the system.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kptlt. Neuerburg View Post
Edit: I got the multimeter but I've never done this sort of test before. Could someone give me some pointers as to how I'm supposed to do this?
I've never used one on a motherboard before, so I have no clue.


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Old 08-10-19, 07:37 AM   #4
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After testing, troubleshooting I finally decided to ask for an RMA. Nothing that I've done has worked at all. I'm still pretty certain that it was DOA but I wanted to at least try everything first before sending it back.


EDIT: I did some more troubleshooting and if I plug in the 24-pin power connector and install the CPU the board will start. If I plug in the 8-pin 12V and plug in the CPU fan it will start but if I seat and lock the CPU fan the board will NOT start up.
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Old 08-10-19, 01:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kptlt. Neuerburg View Post
So I did some more digging and it turns out that this motherboard doesn't support my current OS which is Win 7 64-bit, but does support Win 10 64-bit. That might have been the real real problem.
Sorry, I missed this post, was typing mine...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kptlt. Neuerburg View Post
...
I'm still pretty certain that it was DOA but I wanted to at least try everything first before sending it back.
...
This right here is why I prefer to go to a store, open the box and inspect the Motherboard/video card/etc.
A visual inspection will not find bad components, but it will locate damage to said components that could result in a fried board.

This isn't always an option for everyone, but when it is...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kptlt. Neuerburg View Post
...
EDIT: I did some more troubleshooting and if I plug in the 24-pin power connector and install the CPU the board will start. If I plug in the 8-pin 12V and plug in the CPU fan it will start but if I seat and lock the CPU fan the board will NOT start up.

That is rather odd...




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Old 08-10-19, 09:54 PM   #6
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It is quite odd but thus far that's the direction the tests are pointing at, what I think is happening is that when the CPU fan is seated and locked in place it's putting too much pressure onto the CPU possibly creating a short in the system. If that's the problem then I came up with a solution for it which would be to make a shim out of electrical tape and placing it with the adhesive side facing up under each corner of the plastic parts that help hold the CPU fan in place. As long as I can get it to a point where the pressure on the CPU is reduced but is still in contact with bottom of the fan then it should work, in theory.
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Old 08-10-19, 11:33 PM   #7
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try running it with the default cpu fan/heatsink, as long as you have some sort of heatsink (without a fan) it will run fine for 5 minutes or so without over heating.
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Old 08-11-19, 08:08 AM   #8
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