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10-27-22, 09:54 PM | #1 |
Gefallen Engel U-666
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how much heavier is the substituted brass railing and winter-garden brass over the kit's original plastic that it won't affect stability when you finally launch the vessel in water?
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"Only two things are infinite; The Universe and human squirrelyness; and I'm not too sure about the Universe" |
10-27-22, 10:19 PM | #2 |
verrückt kaleun
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The brass is of course heavier but it won't affect the final result really since I can simply use a little less ballast weight or a little more foam when trimming the boat to compensate.
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Gwen |
10-28-22, 08:00 AM | #3 |
Born to Run Silent
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Do you glue brass parts together or braze them? Looks great, Gwen.
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SUBSIM - 26 Years on the Web |
10-28-22, 11:50 AM | #4 | |
Gefallen Engel U-666
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Quote:
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"Only two things are infinite; The Universe and human squirrelyness; and I'm not too sure about the Universe" |
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10-28-22, 03:09 PM | #5 |
verrückt kaleun
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I'm using silver solder and a propane torch. I built a little wooden jig to hold the wintergarten parts in position while I soldered them. It was still pretty tricky at this scale. =)
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Gwen |
11-01-22, 03:55 AM | #6 |
verrückt kaleun
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Update on the railing work
I now have all the brass railings built except for the main side railings on the conning tower and a couple details on the deck rails. I also decided to try making my own cloth scale Kriegsmarine flag so I found an old piece of fine woven cotton bedsheet, ironed it nice and smooth, and backed it with a sheet of adhesive vinyl to make an 8.5x11 size printable sheet. I then ran it through my Canon inkjet printer and it actually worked really well. I carefully cut it out and removed the vinyl backing and sealed the edges with CA glue so they wouldn't unravel and folded it and carefully glued the edges only together. Now I have a pretty nifty little homemade all cloth flag that looks darned good if I say so myself. The flagstaff is removable from the holder on the back of the wintergarten and I will mostly just use it when displaying the model.
*Note to admins: if the historically accurate flag image presents an issue I will be happy to modify the image so as not to offend anyone.
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Gwen Last edited by Gwenydd; 11-01-22 at 04:10 AM. |
11-01-22, 05:58 AM | #7 |
Fleet Admiral
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Not if I had something to say-because for me it indicate that you are building your model 100 % historical correct.
About the model-What is there to say other than-You have done a great job so far. Markus
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My little lovely female cat |
11-01-22, 07:34 AM | #8 |
Born to Run Silent
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You work fast, it's looking really good. What's the status, model 75%, R/C ..% ?
Great work!
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SUBSIM - 26 Years on the Web |
11-06-22, 02:06 PM | #9 |
verrückt kaleun
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linkages continued...
Still working on all the various linkages to get everything working smoothly and with full travel on the controls.
Here's the aft end of the WTC in the hull where it connects to the drive train and servo pushrods. The servo movement wasn't enough to get full travel on the controls so I had to add a few levers to increase the travel. I am continuing to tweak the linkages to get everything working as it should.
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Gwen |
11-06-22, 02:26 PM | #10 |
Fleet Admiral
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Are you going to add a camera linse in front of the sub or somewhere else pointing forward ?
I remember a friend from a hobby club who put a fisheye linse on his sub. I presume you are constructing the sub being able to dive will it be static dive or dive by driving(can't remember exact phrase) Markus
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My little lovely female cat |
11-06-22, 05:32 PM | #11 |
verrückt kaleun
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Not planning on a camera right now. If I did add one I would make it mountable on the deck gun mount. I used a magnetic mount for the deck gun so it can just be pulled right off the deck and replaced with a camera easily if I want to.
If you read the post on the first page of my log about the WTC it explains all about how the sub will work. (Hint: it's static diving - that's why it has a ballast tank and pumps).
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Gwen Last edited by Gwenydd; 11-06-22 at 05:57 PM. |
11-09-22, 09:12 PM | #12 |
verrückt kaleun
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conning tower details and painting
I finished adding some scratch-built antenna rigging bits on the conning tower (since they were not included in the kit), also cut out a few holes through the hull and added some inside details.
Here it is with with the primer coat. I am priming the entire sub with red oxide so I can use a resist applied in selected locations to simulate rust on the boat when the finish coats are on.
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Gwen |
11-10-22, 09:49 PM | #13 |
verrückt kaleun
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conning tower painting/weathering
I have the paint and weathering on the conning tower nearly finished. I need to tone down the reds a little on the rust areas with some browns. But it's pretty much done now.
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Gwen Last edited by Gwenydd; 11-10-22 at 10:13 PM. |
11-11-22, 02:34 PM | #14 |
ET2/SS
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Not jealous, not jealous, not jealous..
Just curious, what are you using for a final top coat? Clear enamel or maybe even two-part Epoxy? That puppy is supposed to get wet. |
11-11-22, 08:45 PM | #15 |
verrückt kaleun
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The topcoat is flat clear enamel.
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Gwen |
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