Revell's Pontiac firebird scale 1/8 build progress

ET2SN · 02-16-23, 11:41 PM

If the instructions tell you to paint the carburetor Gold, consider using Tamiya Titanium Gold, instead. This a VERY close match to what Holley Carbs look like.

Also, now is the time to figure out WHAT you are building.

"Day One" from the dealership or a full-on restoration in the present day? "Barn Find", old and filthy? "Daily Driver" that has been well-maintained?

The painting and weathering will be different for each case.

You might want to check out "HPI Guy" on YouTube, he builds a LOT of models as a kind of review. He doesn't build "show quality" models, he just builds and paints quickly using bottle and spray can paints. Some of his weathering ideas are pretty good but check out his over-all process. DO NOT use floor finish on the body and glass. It looks great for about six months before it starts to yellow.

Instead, try my trick of using "detailing spray". Just dab some on after you're sure the paint has dried and immediately buff it off. You'll get a deep and very shiny protective surface which should hold up for at least a year.

One quick tip from an American perspective, with the underbody, frame, and fender wells, there was a very popular Dealer/Garage Mechanic practice of using Rust Proofing on new or older cars. This stuff was a nasty rubber-based paint which was sprayed all over the frame and undersides. Just basic Satin Black replicates it well. You'll even want to apply it a little sloppy.

This stuff was very popular in the East Coast and Northern states. It didn't really work, but you would see it a lot.

Enjoy the build.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Switch to Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Threaded Mode

02-16-23, 11:41 PM	#7
ET2SN ET2/SS Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 2,563 Downloads: 58 Uploads: 0	If the instructions tell you to paint the carburetor Gold, consider using Tamiya Titanium Gold, instead. This a VERY close match to what Holley Carbs look like. Also, now is the time to figure out WHAT you are building. "Day One" from the dealership or a full-on restoration in the present day? "Barn Find", old and filthy? "Daily Driver" that has been well-maintained? The painting and weathering will be different for each case. You might want to check out "HPI Guy" on YouTube, he builds a LOT of models as a kind of review. He doesn't build "show quality" models, he just builds and paints quickly using bottle and spray can paints. Some of his weathering ideas are pretty good but check out his over-all process. DO NOT use floor finish on the body and glass. It looks great for about six months before it starts to yellow. Instead, try my trick of using "detailing spray". Just dab some on after you're sure the paint has dried and immediately buff it off. You'll get a deep and very shiny protective surface which should hold up for at least a year. One quick tip from an American perspective, with the underbody, frame, and fender wells, there was a very popular Dealer/Garage Mechanic practice of using Rust Proofing on new or older cars. This stuff was a nasty rubber-based paint which was sprayed all over the frame and undersides. Just basic Satin Black replicates it well. You'll even want to apply it a little sloppy. This stuff was very popular in the East Coast and Northern states. It didn't really work, but you would see it a lot. Enjoy the build.