This resource is specialized for die-cast models and is also "US Only".
It happens, you buy a die cast car and that "factory finish" got some shipping/packaging rash or an Oops happened and you wound up with a paint ding.
Fixing it, as long as it isn't metallic paint, is pretty straight forward. Just find some paint that matches your die-cast and get ready to do some polishing. Getting that paint to match can be tricky, however.
https://www.ebay.com/usr/mbiauto?mke...&ul_noapp=true
Or, search for MBIAUTO.com.
MBI is located near Grand Rapids, Mi. and specializes in auto paint. They are also handy if your 1/1th scale ride has suffered some rock chips and you want to fix it in your garage. Their main page on EBay has a really handy drop-down menu to verify your paint code and if you can find it, they can mix it. You can also buy quarts and gallons if you're planning something more ambitious.
I haven't included you folks who build styrene plastic models, yet. My two 1 oz. bottles of paint ( packed in a 2 oz. plastic bottle with a small brush built into the cap ) showed up today (Thursday) after placing the order on EBay on Monday, so order and turn-around time to the Mid West is fast. I haven't opened the bottles yet, but a sniff test tells me this stuff is an enamel rather than a "hotter" lacquer. I'll test some on some styrene later and update this post if it works. I paid $8 US for each 1 oz. bottle of paint, shipping included. Not exactly cheap ( by hobby paint standards ) but its better than taking your chances at WalMart or Auto Zone or Hobby Lobby.
But does the new paint
match?
This is trickier than than you might guess. That die-cast car you bought may claim to use "authentic" colors, but if it was assembled somewhere in Asia, what did they
really use? Well, there's only one way to find out and at least you'll be somewhere in the ball park.
I ordered two bottles, Torch Red ( Ford paint code D3 ) for the Mustang that donated some parts to the Shelby GT 350 ( I need to fix some "package rash" on a front fender and to fill in the spots where the shock tower brace used to sit) and Performance White (paint code HP ) for the Shelby to fix some flaws and some minor cracking/peeling between the body and the (plastic) aero skirts.
More, later.
Update- So far, the results are .. OK?
The bottles are shipped with a wrapping of packaging tape around them. A good solution for shipping paint but a total pain in the
to remove.
This stuff is definitely a thick enamel with a vague whiff of Alkyd based paint. It isn't Plasticote
but its close. Thinning it down might be tricky (definitely check with MBI before you start throwing hobby-based reducer/thinner at it) and I would think a LOT before pouring it in a good airbrush. Still..
Coverage is good for an enamel and I found a test mule in an old AMT truck kit that was a parts donor to test this paint directly on styrene plastic. This kit was one of the "old school" truck re-issues with the harder white plastic. I applied a fairly thick wad of the Performance White with the included brush and things look.. OK? so far.
No signs of the plastic reacting or going soft but I did notice the paint acting a little weird and "pitting" in some small spots. More than likely, its due to some surface contamination on the plastic (I didn't clean or prep the part and its been sitting out in the open for several years) or its just the nature of the built-in brush. This stuff
does act like an old-school thick enamel so plan on the standard long drying and curing time (days and weeks for a full cure). If you're familiar with the term "out gassing", you have a pretty good handle on what this stuff is.
Color matching- The Performance White isn't a perfect match on the Shelby. From a distance it looks fine but up-close the paint looks more like a Wimbledon (canvas) white than a pure white. There are defiantly some slight gray and tan tones in the new paint. Which one is right? Who knows?? Its defiantly a closer match to the Wimbledon white on my 1969 "Shinoda" Boss 302 Mustang die cast, which is immaculate, so I won't be testing it further.
My gut told me when I first got the Shelby that the paint was more of a "pure" white than a "Ford" white so I'll probably have more luck if I march into the hardware store.
The Torch Red on the Greenlight Mustang is freaking perfect, so go figure..
So, pluses- Relatively cheap and I'll give MBI the nod on color matching paint codes. Fast, free delivery when ordered from EBay. If this stuff turns into a rock while its sitting on the shelf, don't sweat it. Just order another bottle. Will probably respond well to polishing compounds and buffing once its fully cured. This paint is very handy for what it is, as long as you know what you're getting into. Doesn't seem to react badly to the harder grades of styrene plastic, but I would always test it prior to use.
Minuses- I wouldn't get this stuff within one city block of your fancy airbrush unless you really hate yourself. This isn't acrylic or hobby grade enamel, its more like a thick alkyd-based no-shirt paint. Even if you thin it down, its still going to act like glue until it dries and then you'll be totally screwed. Full drying and curing time is probably measured in weeks, so don't be in a hurry.
For brushes, think "disposable".
From my experience, forget about thinning this stuff down to "like milk", the pigment will start to break down long before you get there.
So, "recommended" for us gray hairs or if you're new and want to experience the "good old days" of throwing enamel paint.
Seriously, not recommended if you know only the current types of model paint. Recommended strongly for the advanced builder/collector (us old farts) who want accurate colors, forget ever having to say "Its
supposed to be Hugger Blue, that
isn't Hugger Blue!".
For the model car builders, know what you're getting into. This stuff is a pain to lay down, it takes forever to cure, and you're going to invest a lot of time in polishing and buffing it out. But at least the colors and the finish will be accurate.