Revell's Pontiac firebird scale 1/8 build progress
 

Got the package today and it was huge, which was understandable due to the scale. It's the biggest car I've ever assembled/build.

Here are some picture of the chassis

https://i.imgur.com/8cHcfjUm.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/VPh8LFMm.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/aG3SyYPm.jpg

Some hours after I had received the parcel I went to my preferred online hobby store and ordered 15 can of Revell colours. Had 8 of them already.

It will be a huge job painting the chassis in a colour combination of two

Been studying the parts and they are OK...what I consider being a setback is that the doors can't be opened and closed.

Markus

Nice! Looking forward to seeing pictures of the competed model.

Thank you Dave.

As it says in the title build progress-Which mean I will post picture a few times per week.

Markus

An update

I have to mix three Revell Enamel colours-45/45/10 %.

I tried to add the first colour with one of my 3 ml pipettes.

What a disaster got paint on my hand on the outside of this pipettes.

So now I'm searching for other ways to mix these colours needed to paint parts of the Engine.

Edit
Have decided to paint it in only one of these three colours - Blue Gloss(Revell 52)
End edit

Markus

Do you have access to any Testor's paints?

There are two "stock" options for engine paint, "GM/Ford Engine Blue" (a kind of an industrial blue) and "Pontiac Engine Blue" (more of a silver with a small amount of blue and not really accurate for that model year). This is if you're aiming for total accuracy.

Some other options would be a medium metallic blue or any kind of medium blue if you're looking for something mildly custom or else shoot the moon for a completely custom look. :)

For example, if you wanted something that makes it look like the engine was totally rebuilt and repainted, you could use what-ever color you liked. :yep:

Thank you ET2SN for your advice. I decided to glue the engine parts together without painting.

Some picture of the engine It's 20 cm long.

https://i.imgur.com/Ak1uQfMm.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/oAV8yofm.jpg

Edit
I going to paint the chassis in either Revell's SM302 or Humbrol Met 222.
The bottom will be painted in SM302.
End edit

Markus

If the instructions tell you to paint the carburetor Gold, consider using Tamiya Titanium Gold, instead. This a VERY close match to what Holley Carbs look like.

Also, now is the time to figure out WHAT you are building. :up:

"Day One" from the dealership or a full-on restoration in the present day? "Barn Find", old and filthy? "Daily Driver" that has been well-maintained?

The painting and weathering will be different for each case. :yep:

You might want to check out "HPI Guy" on YouTube, he builds a LOT of models as a kind of review. He doesn't build "show quality" models, he just builds and paints quickly using bottle and spray can paints. Some of his weathering ideas are pretty good but check out his over-all process. DO NOT use floor finish on the body and glass. It looks great for about six months before it starts to yellow. :doh: Instead, try my trick of using "detailing spray". Just dab some on after you're sure the paint has dried and immediately buff it off. You'll get a deep and very shiny protective surface which should hold up for at least a year. :up:

One quick tip from an American perspective, with the underbody, frame, and fender wells, there was a very popular Dealer/Garage Mechanic practice of using Rust Proofing on new or older cars. This stuff was a nasty rubber-based paint which was sprayed all over the frame and undersides. Just basic Satin Black replicates it well. You'll even want to apply it a little sloppy. :doh:

This stuff was very popular in the East Coast and Northern states. It didn't really work, but you would see it a lot. :03:

Enjoy the build. :yeah:

Change of mind.

I decided to paint the chassis on Blue Metallic-The same blue used by the Blue arrows group in USA

I started to paint some part of the chassis and came to the conclusion that I had to paint it 3-4 times..No way.

So here is what I'm going to do-Buy this colour on spray paint for cars.

I've read that it goes well with plastic.

Markus

progress

https://i.imgur.com/fjSROD8m.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/393eQPPm.jpg

Markus

After having put the model on hold and started on my other project the Agoras Porsche 917KH I decided last weekend to return to my construction of this Pontiac firebird.

The first few steps went smoothly..then I ran into troubles, with the tires.
The hole in diameter is almost wider than the Rim and the other thing from the other side.

It's only 0.2-0.3 mm of the hole in the tire where I can place the rim on.

Have to glue it.

I fear the moment when I have to spray paint the main body-Have no experience from that kind of painting.

I know I shall clean the part and then add a Primer before I paint it in the colour I have chosen- Blue Metallic.

Markus

With the tires, invest in a bag of cotton balls for removing make up.
Stuff the tires with enough cotton so they "fill out" and grip the rims of the wheels. You should be able to avoid using glue.

Spray painting takes practice. :up:

ALWAYS make sure you clean any contamination off the plastic before you spray. Warm water and dish detergent for greasy dishes might work. A weak solvent or rubbing alcohol is another alternative. Your finger prints can be enough to cause the paint to act weird.

In most cases, spray several light coats then follow up with a thicker final coat. This is one of those times where less is almost always better.
If you use enamel paint, give the paint on the body at least one week to fully cure. Enamel produces a gas as it dries and cures, any clear coats applied over enamel WILL bubble if the enamel isn't done "out gassing". :doh:

Once the paint has fully cured on the body, you aren't out the woods yet. :03: That shiny paint you laid down might not be so shiny after the paint fully dries. DON'T PANIC! Invest in some Tamiya mild polishing compound and an old (but clean) cotton tee shirt. Spend a couple of days lightly polishing and buffing the paint. :yeah: Take your time and you WILL be rewarded.

Clear coats-. I avoid them like the plague. I have yet to find a clear coat that doesn't yellow or brown out after about one year. :Kaleun_Mad:
There are folks on YouTube who still use acrylic floor finish on their bodies. It looks great on the video and its super simple to apply. It doesn't look so great after a couple of months. :03:

Paint brands and types-. This is really at your discretion. :salute: Use what you can find. If it comes down to using a spray can or an airbrush, both have their limitations. Enamels in an air brush means you'll be spending at least as much time cleaning your air brush than you did putting down the paint.
Tamiya has an excellent range of spray lacquers and "hybrid" enamels. The only downside is that they aim for "one shade fits all" colors, so what you get will usually look great- it just might not be accurate. :doh:

If you aren't sure about using spray cans, buy two cans and use one to build up your experience level on some scrap plastic. :salute:

Thank you so much for your advice

Especially the cotton thing.

And thank you for the tip on using some scrap plastic to practice on
It never crossed my mind.

Markus

Sage advice, I use salad-server 'poly gloves' to handle parts (my Revell VII Uboat effort)when painting. AHEM:Fingerprints is one word; or was when I took forensics! :O::Kaleun_Goofy:

Good for you, I'm not a Forensicsist.

:Kaleun_Wink: