Some of the more advanced things you'll want on hand. :up:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...t_b_prod_image

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...t_b_prod_image

Having a good assortment of miniature machine and self-tapping screws on the shelf can save your more ambitious projects. Fixing die-casts is obvious but there are times (scratch building, control panels, lighting, dioramas, etc.) when you don't want to reach for a glue gun or a tube of super glue.

This is the best way to stick two things together that have never been stuck together before. Its also cheaper in the long run than buying old watches on EBay and stripping them down for parts.



:Kaleun_Cheers:

Something that just showed up and looks very promising:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU99K6E...roduct_details

These are 6" X 9" self stick mirrors made of Mylar and bonded to clear (rigid ) plastic.
There's a peel off backing on the glue side and another to protect the clear plastic from scratches.
The mirrors look like the real thing. :yeah:
The only downside is the clear plastic is slightly thick (about 1 mm) but it gives a very accurate look for larger scale projects ( probably 1/18th scale at the smallest to 1/8th scale cars and bikes).

To use them, just transfer the pattern of your mirror to the sheet and cut it out using sharp scissors. The edge can then be sanded smooth and you can then use a black or green Sharpie pen or acrylic paint to add some extra detail. Very easy to handle besides the backing and protection sheets.

So, why is it a big deal? This stuff looks like a flat mirror, not some Mylar tape or chromed plastic. :D You get a more pronounced 3D effect plus a fairly sharp mirror image. Like I said before, for larger scale projects this stuff is a no-brainer. :yeah:

The "self stick" part is my only real concern. Its a tacky glue that may not hold up over time, but it can be removed carefully using salad oil and a rag.

A little expensive for what they are but at least you don't have to buy 20 square yards of material to get a 2 inch piece. The three 6" X 9" sheets should last a long time in your scratch building drawer.

Edit- They would also be great for building a custom display base.

Before I forget again:


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FWZNCWJ...roduct_details

Fixed cleats for your modern 1/350th scale submarines. :rock:

If you've ever built the Hobby Boss 688 family of kits, you know how much of a pain it is to glue the plastic fixed cleats in place. This is 100 times easier. :up:

You'll need a fine metal file, a small pair of strong nippers, a pin vise and micro drill bits and six shirt pins. Drill out the mounting holes on the hull using a 74 gauge/ 0.0225 drill bit. Using your pin vise handle, chuck up a shirt pin so its easier to work on. Cut two opposite sides of the head of the shirt pin so it starts to look like a US football. File and sand to get the final shape. Trim off the point of the shirt pin, leaving most of the pin intact.

Stick the pin in one of your drilled holes on the hull then add a dot glue to the pin before you position it, then paint. :yeah:

Shirt pins have hundreds of uses in modeling, from adding strength to delicate/fiddly assemblies to adding antennas to model cars, you can even use the cleat trick to make a nifty removeable air cleaner on the engine of your model car.

This resource is specialized for die-cast models and is also "US Only".

It happens, you buy a die cast car and that "factory finish" got some shipping/packaging rash or an Oops happened and you wound up with a paint ding.

:k_confused:

Fixing it, as long as it isn't metallic paint, is pretty straight forward. Just find some paint that matches your die-cast and get ready to do some polishing. Getting that paint to match can be tricky, however.

https://www.ebay.com/usr/mbiauto?mke...&ul_noapp=true


Or, search for MBIAUTO.com.

:D

MBI is located near Grand Rapids, Mi. and specializes in auto paint. They are also handy if your 1/1th scale ride has suffered some rock chips and you want to fix it in your garage. Their main page on EBay has a really handy drop-down menu to verify your paint code and if you can find it, they can mix it. You can also buy quarts and gallons if you're planning something more ambitious.

:Kaleun_Wink:

I haven't included you folks who build styrene plastic models, yet. My two 1 oz. bottles of paint ( packed in a 2 oz. plastic bottle with a small brush built into the cap ) showed up today (Thursday) after placing the order on EBay on Monday, so order and turn-around time to the Mid West is fast. I haven't opened the bottles yet, but a sniff test tells me this stuff is an enamel rather than a "hotter" lacquer. I'll test some on some styrene later and update this post if it works. I paid $8 US for each 1 oz. bottle of paint, shipping included. Not exactly cheap ( by hobby paint standards ) but its better than taking your chances at WalMart or Auto Zone or Hobby Lobby. :03:

But does the new paint match? :hmmm:
This is trickier than than you might guess. That die-cast car you bought may claim to use "authentic" colors, but if it was assembled somewhere in Asia, what did they really use? Well, there's only one way to find out and at least you'll be somewhere in the ball park.

I ordered two bottles, Torch Red ( Ford paint code D3 ) for the Mustang that donated some parts to the Shelby GT 350 ( I need to fix some "package rash" on a front fender and to fill in the spots where the shock tower brace used to sit) and Performance White (paint code HP ) for the Shelby to fix some flaws and some minor cracking/peeling between the body and the (plastic) aero skirts.

More, later. :up:




Update- So far, the results are .. OK? :hmmm:

The bottles are shipped with a wrapping of packaging tape around them. A good solution for shipping paint but a total pain in the :arrgh!: to remove.

This stuff is definitely a thick enamel with a vague whiff of Alkyd based paint. It isn't Plasticote :doh: but its close. Thinning it down might be tricky (definitely check with MBI before you start throwing hobby-based reducer/thinner at it) and I would think a LOT before pouring it in a good airbrush. Still.. :hmmm:
Coverage is good for an enamel and I found a test mule in an old AMT truck kit that was a parts donor to test this paint directly on styrene plastic. This kit was one of the "old school" truck re-issues with the harder white plastic. I applied a fairly thick wad of the Performance White with the included brush and things look.. OK? so far. :up: No signs of the plastic reacting or going soft but I did notice the paint acting a little weird and "pitting" in some small spots. More than likely, its due to some surface contamination on the plastic (I didn't clean or prep the part and its been sitting out in the open for several years) or its just the nature of the built-in brush. This stuff does act like an old-school thick enamel so plan on the standard long drying and curing time (days and weeks for a full cure). If you're familiar with the term "out gassing", you have a pretty good handle on what this stuff is. :03:

Color matching- The Performance White isn't a perfect match on the Shelby. From a distance it looks fine but up-close the paint looks more like a Wimbledon (canvas) white than a pure white. There are defiantly some slight gray and tan tones in the new paint. Which one is right? Who knows?? Its defiantly a closer match to the Wimbledon white on my 1969 "Shinoda" Boss 302 Mustang die cast, which is immaculate, so I won't be testing it further.
My gut told me when I first got the Shelby that the paint was more of a "pure" white than a "Ford" white so I'll probably have more luck if I march into the hardware store. :O: :har:

The Torch Red on the Greenlight Mustang is freaking perfect, so go figure.. :haha: :yeah:

So, pluses- Relatively cheap and I'll give MBI the nod on color matching paint codes. Fast, free delivery when ordered from EBay. If this stuff turns into a rock while its sitting on the shelf, don't sweat it. Just order another bottle. Will probably respond well to polishing compounds and buffing once its fully cured. This paint is very handy for what it is, as long as you know what you're getting into. Doesn't seem to react badly to the harder grades of styrene plastic, but I would always test it prior to use.

Minuses- I wouldn't get this stuff within one city block of your fancy airbrush unless you really hate yourself. This isn't acrylic or hobby grade enamel, its more like a thick alkyd-based no-shirt paint. Even if you thin it down, its still going to act like glue until it dries and then you'll be totally screwed. Full drying and curing time is probably measured in weeks, so don't be in a hurry.
For brushes, think "disposable". :yep: From my experience, forget about thinning this stuff down to "like milk", the pigment will start to break down long before you get there.

So, "recommended" for us gray hairs or if you're new and want to experience the "good old days" of throwing enamel paint. :doh:
Seriously, not recommended if you know only the current types of model paint. Recommended strongly for the advanced builder/collector (us old farts) who want accurate colors, forget ever having to say "Its supposed to be Hugger Blue, that isn't Hugger Blue!". :D For the model car builders, know what you're getting into. This stuff is a pain to lay down, it takes forever to cure, and you're going to invest a lot of time in polishing and buffing it out. But at least the colors and the finish will be accurate. :up:

Another fun EBay link I recently found for you car and truck builders:


https://www.ebay.com/usr/modelcars.d...75.m3561.l2559

Modelcars.de is located in Germany near Mannheim and they make and sell decals. All kinds of decals in many of the popular scales (1/10th, 1/18th, 1/24th, 1/32nd, 1/43rd, you get the idea). :rock: If you check the link, make sure to click the SEE ALL ITEMS button and you'll understand why you'll want to save their address. :D

This is one of those times when being patient pays off. :yeah: About eight or nine years ago, I bought a Welly 1/18th scale 1972 Trans Am and detailed the snot out of it. It turned out great but the sidewalls of the tires were blank. Thanks to the link above, I can finally finish the project. :D I found a sheet of decals that included "popular tire brand from the seventies" Radial T/A outline lettering in white. Perfect for this car. :rock:



I'm in the middle of a long term test, BTW. I'm trying out a method of placing tire decals on different types of tire compounds. Everything from rubber based kit and die-cast tires to vinyl based tires. This isn't about short term looks, its about decals which will hold up for years.

I start out brushing isopropyl alcohol on the tire sidewall to clean off any contamination and let it dry. Next, I brush on a thin coat of AK Satin Varnish to seal the sidewall and give the decal something to grip. After that dries, I brush on some Micro Sol and apply the decal then give it a dousing of Micro Set to soften the decal backing. Once the Set has done its job, I apply another thin layer or two of the varnish to seal the decal in place. The AK varnish is very thin, which is why I like it for this project. If I don't update this post for another five years, I guess that means it worked. :D


One small update- Results with the tire decals look good so far, but if you're working with vinyl tires you'll have a tough time with aqueous (water based) varnish. Instead, I used good old Testor's Dull Cote. The lacquer solvents in Dull Cote also act like a decal setting solution.

A good link for paint. :yeah:

https://mcwfinishes.com/

MCW Finishes specializes in hobby enamel and lacquer paints.
Their paints are sold pre-thinned for airbrush use and their catalogue is pretty deep. :o

While MCW is building a solid rep with the car modelers (their paints are starting to get some traction in hobby stores), they also cater to many military and electric train subjects. :up: So, don't assume they're just a source for building street stocks and rat rods.

MCW is located in Massillon, Ohio and you can check their web site for business hours. Direct-order prices are fair and service is fast if you're in the US (six days from placing an order to delivery in my case). While I'm starting to see some buzz about their paint in the UK, I'm not sure how much of a hassle it would be for them to ship individual orders globally. US shipping is slightly high, but these are bottles of paint after all.

Overall, MCW is a good source for hobby paint but their pros and cons tend to be the same. :doh:

The paint is pre-thinned for airbrush use. While its not that big of a gripe, it would be nice if they offered a more universal formula, especially in enamels.

Their product line is currently.. freakin' HUGE. :o
This is great when it comes to finding the right colors and finishes, just be ready to spend some time in actually finding them (the spy glass on their header opens a search function, which you WILL need). If you're looking for a specific color name or paint code, write it down so you won't forget it while you search. While they also provide sub-categories based on common uses such as auto manufacturers, expect a long slog to find what you want (but you will probably find it). For now, I'm treating their paints like Tamiya so don't forget stuff like thinner, cleaner, and retarder if you're getting fancy. :03:

So, anyway, I had a couple of small repair projects for some 1/18th scale die casts- a '64 Mustang and a '66 GTO- both wearing metallic dark maroon. I went with a 1 oz. bottle of lacquer color matched to the Ford, if there is a difference to these colors I can't see it. Like I wrote earlier, the paint showed up six days after I placed the order and I paid a little less than $20 for a 1 oz. bottle plus S&H. Not too bad in terms of convivence.
The paint is packed in a 1 oz. glass bottle with a metal cap. I can also hear a small agitator inside the bottle when I shake it. :up:

Application was a bit off-the-path for you airbrush snobs. :O: I used a small sharpened toothpick to flow the paint into the small chips and scratches. Color matching and metal flake is really good and the paint dried quickly. I'll give it a day or two before I buff and polish the repair spots. :yeah: MCW also provides some really good instructions on how to use their paints.

So, what's the difference between MCW and the last paint company I wrote about? MCW is hobby based. With die-casts, especially in 1/18th scale, its a bit of a "push" if you use hobby paints or paints made for the genuine article. This gave me a good excuse to try both. :D

MCW paint is highly recommended for hobbyists in North America. What you get is first-rate and realize that shipping is high due to the product. For users "off the continent", its top quality stuff but be ready for some headaches in terms of shipping- or bug the heck out of your favorite hobby shop. :yeah:

Will MCW take over Testor's old turf? Well, we could do a lot worse. :yep:

Maybe not the right place to put it-But here you will need all the Modeling resources you can get.

It's huge Box size : 106 x 54 x 36cm

https://www.1001hobbies.com/135-scal...580500032.html

Markus

Id like to throw my name in the hat here, just started a store with a friend a few months ago. We've got a ton of paints on the way and I've got some tools in stock already. I was really into the Bandai kits but after a few months of hardly being able to get my hands on any Bandai I decided to dip my toes into Tamiya Models and I'm hooked. If there's anything specific you'd like me to stock I can get it for you, just send me a message.

Name of the company is BitsandBobsToyShop and we're online only and Colorado based. We aren't doing any international shipping yet unless I can find out a way to get the shipping costs down. What is the preferred model scale for planes because I would like to start stocking them after having done my very first BF-109 @ 1:48 scale.

Welcome back!
 

A new link, and tied closely to world events. :salute:

https://plastic-models-store.com/

I've been a fan of Ukrainian model producers for many years. Its always a gas when you check out some new companies you've never heard of and find out they produce "unobtainium" kits of off the wall subjects.

Mikro-Mir is a favorite. They produce 1/350th scale submarine kits that no one else has considered. :arrgh!: Not necessarily made for new builders, but if you hang around with other modelers and you want to see their jaws hit the floor, Mikro-Mir is worth checking out. :yeah:


Meanwhile...an update. :D

I was paging through their Mikro-Mir kits and found

https://plastic-models-store.com/pla...stic-model-kit

Its the short hull Sturgeon class (as opposed to the later "stretch" hull) AND its in 1/144th scale. :yeah:


Ohhhhh, snap. :o This is just too large for my display space and I really wish it was a later Stretch hull but... I think one of them will be getting shipped to Iowa. :yep: I just hope Mulsanne Mike is going to produce a resin screw. I can already see this kit getting the old Pearl Harbor Shipyard paint colors of Insignia Red, "Eggplant" purple, and semi gloss black.



:Kaleun_Salivating:

Come arcross this yesterday, but some of you may know this already but will redo again.

Dougie Martindale has release to Uboat Achieve his collection of Ubout modeling articles. It has extensive research and construction details of Uboats.


https://www.uboatarchive.net/Modeling/Articles.htm

If this is something well known, then sorry for reposting.

Good hunting,
FUBAR295

No way, this is what the Resources thread is for.


:Kaleun_Cheers:

^^^

:Kaleun_Salute:

Something I just found (US). :D

https://www.ebay.com/str/texas3dcutsoms?_pgn=1

Texas 3D has a pretty nice selection of printed resin engines and bits for 1/32nd, 1/25th and 1/24th scale to 1/18th scale models. "Printed Resin" meaning you will need super glue (CA) or epoxy for assembly. For the more adventurous builders, you'll also want a set of micro drills and brass or alum. rods or tubing to pin the parts together and make the glue bonds stronger.

Make note of the modern diesel engines for semi trucks. :D


:Kaleun_Thumbs_Up:


Just a quick update. Check each item for the scales that can be ordered. Many of them are available from 1/32nd scale up to 1/8th scale. (Oh, Marcus...) :yep::up:
If you're looking for something different to build, how about just a 1/8th scale Offy racing engine? :shucks:

1/8 scale engine you said.

Here is my Engine build to Agora's Porsche 917KH

https://i.imgur.com/0iQt6KKm.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZKWXWGNm.jpg

Oh man connecting these plug lead (orange is a pain in the monkey)

Markus

Marcus;
Meanwhile, uh-oh. :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNiZmZyE4SI


This looks like a lot of fun, but I would have no where to park it. :k_confused:

BTW, keep that addy for Texas 3D handy. I know you were building a large Firebird. :up:

I'm in construction of a Pontiac Firebird in 1/8 scale. This is currently on hold await some spray colour-It's primer I need, have blue metallic and black silk math.



It's the same spray colour you use on your car.

I have this Volvo on my list of things to buy

And another thing-Could not find the engine to my Pontiac Firebird

Markus

Well, not wanting to put a "hex" on your build, but any of the GM-based V8's could donate parts if you needed them. :03:

For example, if your cat takes a fancy to one of the smaller parts... :Kaleun_Mad:


Or, maybe down the road you might want to swap engines for something a little more updated? The GM LS1 V-8 is a very popular "crate engine" that can run on modern pump gas, has fuel injection instead of a carb, programmable ECU, better fuel economy and emissions, etc. and many classic cars are getting them installed. :hmmm:

OK, I'm not sure about this one- yet. :hmmm:


https://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/

You'll want to check out their paint, specifically their chrome finish paints. :o

They have stuff like chrome, mirror chrome, gold tones, copper, etc.
For both airbrush and regular brush painting. :o

This paint is alcohol based acrylic, but unlike chrome inks like Molotow, this stuff will cure and be as durable as regular acrylic paints. :o

Unless you've already tried it (and PLEASE sing out if you have!), you're probably thinking the same as me. "No way! It sounds too good to be true!" :timeout:

GSW is located in Spain, so shipping for most of us might be a bear BUT their prices are very tempting. A bottle (think the small squeeze bottles like AK uses) of brush-on mirror chrome runs about $4 (US). :hmmm:
Its also available on EBay if you're nervous about ordering direct.

IF this works as advertised, it would be a game changer. :yep:

-Model cars and trucks. Everything from realistic mirrors and wheels to chrome ... well, anything. :D

-Aircraft. Landing gear struts, landing and nav lights, etc.

-Armor. Hydraulic cylinders, headlight buckets, etc.

-Figures (pay attention, Eich!). Remember they also have polished brass and bronze. You can also "cool down" the chrome effect by over-coating with gloss or matte clear.

So, I'm going to place an order just to play around with this stuff. A gloss black undercoat might work best but I'm interested to see what this stuff does over gloss, satin matte, and even full matte colors like white or gray. :D

OK, its been a while so here's a new one:

https://icemancollections.com/

These are resin 3D printed parts to full body kits. It looks like everything is US based and 1/24 to 1/25th scale. Lots of possibilities here, from diorama parts and pieces to engine kits to batteries, turbos, and carbs. :yeah:

A couple of items I spotted were the 1/25th scale spray paint cans for dioramas and the "Tommy and Cheech" figures (seated or standing). :D

Lots of items to take your 1/25th scale build to a higher level. :up: