Okay, the pictures are of Otto Kretschmer's U-99 (VIIB) at drydock in Lorient in late 1940, so you'll need to use them as a guide rather than gospel for a VIIC, the main external visual difference between the VIIB and C being altered positioning of the external ventillation ducting, so it should serve as a good guide, technically, the tanks were different on the two, with an additional small buoyancy tank added to the main tank array, but externally things looked no different on the tanks. The schematics were tricky to scan, as they were on a tightly folded page, although you can determine many rib positions from them all the same. There is good reference for rippling detail on the last picture, which I can get to you at a higher resolution if you need it.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...bury/Tank3.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...bury/Tank2.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...bury/Tank1.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...schematic1.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...schematic2.jpg

Try not to get glue on the carpet:rotfl:

:D Chock

Top notch!

Some say the picture is worth 1000 words...
http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/6...tic2ph6.th.png

Exactly what i was looking for Chock. Now guided by the rivets on the model i can pinpoint the ribs on the tanks. :D

Solved.

TBC...

Got to love this community for this kind of information (almost) on demand. Absolutely priceless. :up:

Revell VIIc
 

Hi all,

Siara, i'm roughly at same stage you are in my build. I'm doing U-69.
I'm also trying to depict the oil-canning effect on the hull side's in the same manner that you are. Thanks go out to Chock for photo's of U-99 as this effect on this area is somewhat different from what i was led to believe!

I have a question. I found a line drawing on the net of U-570, on this drawing there appears to be some sort of bracing wire(?) on the trailing side of the forward dive planes. This is also evident on the prop models of U-96 in Das Boot. But, since seeing pic's that Chock posted of u-99 these 'wires' are no where to be seen:hmm:
Can anbody shed any light on this tiny but obvious (If missing) detail.

Thanks

Sav.

That would be these things:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...dbury/wire.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...ry/wire3-1.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j1...bury/wire2.jpg

I think they are actually on that other picture, they are probably masked because of the angle of the shot, as they do not go straight back, but are angled upwards slightly as they go to the rear, as evident on the drawings, the larger of which ought to assist you in placing in relation to the panelling line.

UT and GHG (marked on the photograph), pinpoint the locations of the Underwasser Telegraphie, and the Gruppenhorrchgerat. These being the underwater telephone systems for intercommuniction between U-Boats (also sometimes known as Gertrude). GHG is the 'Group Listening System'. Early boats had an array of eleven sensors, later ones had 24, which is the case in that picture.

To be honest, I'm not entirely sure what the purpose of the wire was, but it seems logical to asume it is something to do with the GHG, since the wire, if it goes along the inside of the fixed forward part of the bow plane, would terminate near the GHG sensors, and it does appear to have electrical insulators on it near the hull. Of course it could also be to prevent the tip of the plane fluttering during reversing, but how effective a single wire, as opposed to a pair, would be, is hard to say. If one equates it to the bracing on a biplane wing, then I'd imagine two wires would be more effective. I do know that the part of the dive plane which the wire is fixed to was a fairly substantial structure on U-Boats, because if you look at U-534 (the Type IX in Liverpool), that is the only part which remains, the rest having either broken off or (more likely) corroded away.

The wire (whatever its purpose was) can certainly be found on drawings of all marks of Type VII subs, although it often doesn't show up on them, so I'm guessing it was a standard feature.

:D Chock

Nice one Chock!
 

Bloody Hell Chock,

You are now my new best mate:up:

This is my first forray into Naval modelling for many year's, i'm an avid aircraft fan.
This means that nearly all my ref material is of the flying kind, so finding decent pic's for this project has been mostly web based.
I'm currently waiting on the Bass wood deck's from Nautilus so things have slowed somewhat in my build. The upside of this is that i am forced to slog on with scraping of the hull sides to get the oil-canning effect. Again thanks to your pic's this can be done in a more accurate manner. As for the 'wires' i could not have asked for better, a BIG Thank you agian:rock:

Sav.

No probs, shout up if you need anything else. Whatever the hell those wires actually do, as long as you put them on your model in the right place, then I guess it will be correct even if we don't know what the hell their purpose is:rotfl:

I'd recommend using a .008 guitar string for them (the top E string for an electric guitar), secured into a hole drilled with a pin drill by smearing the end with superglue before you feed it in. Should cost you about 50p from a music shop, as they usually have loose ones in rummage bins. It would be around the correct thickness, and it takes paint okay too. I've used that for bracing wires on biplane models before, and it is just rigid enough to make feeding it into holes easy. A blob of glue on the wire in the right place, painted the same pale green as the tarnish you get on metal such as copper roofs is a good lookalike for the ceramic insulators (assuming thats what they are, and not turnbuckles).

And don't get glue on the carpet:rotfl:

:D Chock

Nice one Chock.
Savvy-good luck with your project. :up:

Im still at the stage of adding more realistic look to the hull.
As you can see on the picture the indents are done along with some damage due to poor parking :cool: .

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/9830/94598xz8.th.jpg

TBC...

Completed drilling the 3 missing holes at the end of saddle tanks.

http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/8...entszr7.th.jpg

TBC...

Mr postman delivered first part of my photo-etched sets. It took post office 3 weeks to deliver it , but at last i got them.
Im realy impressed by Eduard P/E. If they added any more detail to it , one could not see the diference-its that delicate.

http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/3...1087gq8.th.jpg

Still awaiting the P/E from White Ensign , along with Shatton metal gun barrels.

TBC...

I'm hearing ya on the post problem mate. I'm waiting for the wooden deck sections from White Ensign, not thier fault they are coming from the US!

Just ordered CMK's exterior set from Hannants, well worth the money as it put's right Revell's dire attempt at the UZO and attack scope housing, plus you get a pair of turned 'Ally' scopes and a new 88 deck gun! Oh, and four figure's:o

Sav.

Can you fix me with some link for that particular set please Savvy?

I thought the picture above does not justify the quality of Eduards workmanship i decided to take better pic to show you the amazing detail. For comparison i`ve added the 2 penny coin to the frame:

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/2...tailkv7.th.jpg

Watch out the picture is quiet large. You`ve been warned. ;)

*Thanks go to Hannants employee for packing the parts - exceptional protection.



TBC...

No worries mate,

As your familiar with Hannants type in this ref number, CMKN7204. Do this on their search page and it should take you straight to it. Also go here to see some decent pix of what you get for your money http://www.subpirates.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2436

Glen Cauley's web site is very informative also, he's the bloke in the link above, you'll see when ya get there!

Here's a quick rundown of what's going into my build. Eduard etch, Nautilus Bass wood decks, CMK set above and some 'crew' from Hecker and Goros.

Hope this help's

Sav.

Looks a nice combo Savvy.

I just got the total for the remaining parts from MxM which is 90 £.
It includes:
-Yankee Modelworks Pressure Hull
-White Ensign Wooden Deck
-Warriors crew for CT/88mm gun/flak
-Shatton barrels/periscopes/antenna

I know CMK are about to release the pressure hull set of their own , but we have to wait and see what it turn out to bee first. Ill go for tried and tested Yankee Modelworks hull.


The thing thats been on my mind for the while is the weld lines on the boat.
Revell dealt with it by slapping straight lines of plastic on the model , and it does not look right for me.
In order to bring more realistic welds i had to design some sort of tool to change the welds appearance.
I came up with solution - more later.

TBC...

Soldering iron - thats the solution for the weld lines.
Because the temperature that soldering iron reaches was to much for the Revell plastic i came up with simple fix.
Length of copper wire was used , as it conducts the heat well.
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/232/lutni8.th.jpg

I shaped the tip to suit the width of the lines.

http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/3332/tipmp3.th.jpg

You can clearly see the "state" of the welds... :down:
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/6264/weld2pg1.th.jpg

...and after i gave`em the heat treatment...
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/2645/8898pc1.th.jpg

...and litle bit of sanding.
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/6425/64666cx0.th.jpg

I think i come out nicely , and with a little bit of more sanding i should get nice subtle welds. :up:


TBC...

Got to hand it to ya Siara those welds look pretty bloody good:rock:

I have an idea of my own for applying extra weld seams, although i have'nt got around to trying it out yet so don't hold ya breath!!

How are you posting pix in this forum? I think i should start a thread of my own when i get going properly on this build (Thats if the postman ever get's off his fat arse and delivers my stuff) Would make a good comparison thread between two different builders taking on the same kit:hmm:

Keep the pix coming,

Sav.

Another technique for sorting out weld lines is to paint areas of them with liquid poly, since it works by effectively 'welding' plastic parts together, it attacks the plastic and softens it without the application of heat, takes a bit of experimenting to get the technique, so if you try it, do it on a bit of scrap first, but it works, sort of similar to making filler by dissolving bits of sprue in liquid poly.

Careful you don't go over the top with it though, lumpy welds with pinholes (in real life) would be considered poor, because they would be weak and not fuse to the base metal. The hallmark of good welding is for it to be smooth. Professional welders refer to poor welds as 'pigeon sh*t', because that's what a poor weld line resembles, one good whack with a lump hammer and a weld like that is off and in bits on the floor, I know this because I was taught to weld by a guy that used to do it on rigs at sea incidentally, and he used to take the p*ss out of my first attempts mercilessly! And don't forget, the Germans were way ahead of most nations in welding techniques even in WW1, as evidenced by many of their aircraft using steel rather than wooden sub frames, so their welding was generally very smooth indeed.

That soldered mod looks good by the way.

:D Chock

Chock, thats exactly what i had in mind for adding weld seams.

The plan is to mask off the new seams with tamiya masking tape then apply the liquid poly.Once softened the plastic can be lightly textured with my special 'add weld seams tool' Ok, an old scalpel blade!

Your right about welders though, the ones at work (Network Rail) are quite particular about thier welds, that's when they are'nt spilling Thermic all over creation!!

Sav.

Thats another way Chock , sounds good. I chose the solder method due to simplicity.

Savvy - im using Image Shack for hosting my pictures , but there are other places where you can host your snaps.

Whatever the hell those wires actually do, as long as you put them on your model in the right place, then I guess it will be correct even if we don't know what the hell their purpose is.

Hi guys, I am new in this forum, this U-boat is my favourite. I have checked in "The Type VII U-Boat anatomy of the ship" and the wire description is: Fore hydroplane tensioner. I recommended this book, because all the information and details included, with different versions and all internal and deck arrangements. I have plans to start my model next year.
All the best .:up: